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The warlord Mori Terumoto built a castle there, only to lose it eleven years later to Tokugawa Ieyasu after the Battle of Sekigahara, which marked the beginning of the Tokugawa shogunate. Hiroshima was founded in 1589 on the delta formed by the Ota River, flowing out to the Seto Inland Sea. As such, the average Hiroshima resident isn't likely to relish talking about it, although you needn't shy away from the topic if one of the chatty fellows around the Peace Park brings it up. Bear in mind, though, that many hibakusha still live in the city, and even most of the young people in Hiroshima have family members who lived through the blast. Tourists are welcomed, and exhibits related to the atomic bomb are not concerned with blame or accusations.
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There are three excellent art museums in the city center, some of Japan's most fanatical sports fans, and a wide range of culinary delights - most notably the city's towering contribution to bar cuisine, Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki.Īlthough many visitors, especially Americans, may feel apprehensive about visiting Hiroshima, it is a friendly, welcoming city, with as much interest in Western culture as anywhere else in Japan. Automobiles are a major local industry, with Mazda's corporate headquarters nearby. Today, Hiroshima has a population of more than 1.1 million. At first glance, it can be hard to imagine that anything out of the ordinary ever happened here. Teenagers stream in and out of the station, where McDonald's and the latest keitai (mobile phones) await hapless salarymen rush down Aioi-dori to their next meeting, casting a bloodshot eye toward the seedy bars of Nagarekawa as they pass. Those expecting to step off the Shinkansen into a pile of smoldering rubble will be in for a surprise, as Hiroshima has all the ferroconcrete and blinking neon of any other modern Japanese city. Although internationally famous for the horrific split second on August 6, 1945, when it became the site of the world's first atomic bomb attack, Hiroshima is now a modern, cosmopolitan city with excellent cuisine and a bustling nightlife.